As of this post, consider GRG reopened. I can’t promise daily updated content, but recent events have pushed me away from writing as a profession (but I still remain in journalism) and I’ve rediscovered the itch to bang out words on a keyboard using fact-based opinions and observations.
It only felt appropriate to begin again with a trip my family and I recently made to Outer Banks, North Carolina.
I had heard great things about the culinary minds of eastern North Carolina. Once on the beach, some places lived up to the hype, and some didn’t. Either way, I decided to rank my meals (that weren’t cooked up at home or in someone else’s beach house) from bottom to top.
Without further adieu, the Best Places for Your Stomach in Outer Banks, according to me.
6.) PLACE: Coastal Cravings. Duck, North Carolina
MEAL: Snow crab legs, one pound
This is last, partially from my own doing. When headed to the beach, I crave seafood. Shrimp first, crab legs second. Always. I’ll cover the former later, but as far as the latter is concerned, tackled that at Coastal Cravat well-priced, dress casual seafood spot connected to a gas station in Duck, the town we stayed in.
Getting back to the whole “my own doing” part: I ordered one of the few things that, if you want something specifically prepared by a chef at a good restaurant — which Coastal Cravings is — you aren’t going to get with much flair. The crab, the butter sauce, the lemon, the end.
I spent the better part of the meal cracking and pulling and dunking, and was underwhelmed by a place that was featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives (Google it if you don’t watch Food Network.)
The legs had no seasoning, the sauce was at least 80-percent actual butter (not butter sauce) and, while boiling crab legs are soft by nature, these were almost too soft.
It was our first meal of the vacation. It would get better.
5.) PLACE: The Paper Canoe, Duck, North Carolina
MEAL: Appetizer – Chef’s Lobster salad. Entrée – Oven-roasted chicken thighs with a pan sauce demi-glaze, seasoned green beans and three cheese macaroni and cheese. Dessert – Coconut crème brulee.
My wife and I found this place by chance on a drive up the island. The name (seriously, The Paper Canoe is a great name for either a restaurant or a publishing company) caught our eye and the menu hooked us. Though, admittedly, it was a little pricey when it came to the entrées.
With the wallet in mind, I turned my sights to the Chef’s Lobster Salad (pictured below), which was solid. Great texture, sweet flavor.
Then the oven-roasted chicken (good price for the portion) partly because, also, I was getting a little tired of seafood. The green beans were nothing short of perfect. Seasoned with parmesan cheese in generous chunks. The three cheese mac-and-cheese was great because, well, it’s not tough to make good mac-and-cheese if you pile on the good cheeses. In this case, they seemed like parmesan, provolone and Swiss.
But the chicken itself was bland. The demi glaze saved it somewhat with a sweet tanginess to it. Maybe that’s what the chef was going for. But it wasn’t something I was interested in.
The dessert made it all better though (thanks to my wife’s mother ordering it and splitting it with me.) The candied sugar on top gave way to a great coconut creaminess that was helped by the whipped cream — but what doesn’t get a boost from whipped cream?
Overall, the meal was basic, but the flavors, however simple, weren’t executed properly.
4.) PLACE: Outer Banks Brewing Station, Kill Devil Hills, North Carolina
MEAL: Shrimp Po-Boy and fries with a flight of four beers.
In all honesty, this meal was about the beers. OBBS is the first wind-powered brewery in the nation and there’s always something cool about visiting the place where something “first” occurred — which is also probably why it’s a quarter-mile from the Wright Brothers Memorial Museum and Park in Kitty Hawk.
The meal started with the flight — light to dark, Olsche Kolsche, Lemongrass Wheat Ale, Naked Saison, Shipwreck Porter. All great beers in their own right, all made by harnessing the wind gusts the nearby Atlantic Ocean has to offer (which are gathered by a 93-foot turbine, the tallest structure on the island.)
The Po-Boy was as good as expected. The shrimp was fried and in a huge portion, with the garlic aioli mayo (the green sauce you see below) just added to the flavor. The cabbage portion was a bit heavy, but nothing I couldn’t scrape off. The hoagie roll held it all together and the juices stayed inside the bun, helping get the full taste.
Yes, it was about the beer. But it wasn’t all about the beer at the end. And I got a sweet shirt.
3.) PLACE: The Fat Tuna Grill, Williamsburg, Virginia
MEAL: Shrimp and cheese grits with Tasso gravy.
This meal set off our trip. We stayed a night in the Virginia bay area, taking in Colonial Williamsburg on the Fourth of July and trying to find a good dinner spot. My wife found the Fat Tuna Grill and although the name was intriguing, the food was better.
Shrimp and grits is a southern staple, but it gets better as you get nearer to the ocean in the southeastern United States. If done right, science (probably) has proven a man can survive on alone for six years. Though that’s just a rough estimate.
I liken grits in America to risotto in Italy. The dish has to be cooked perfectly to work. If undercooked, the grits can be hard. Undercooked? Grits are soupy. Fat Tuna got them perfect. Mixed with the right amount of cheese and these are some grits that would be in my Top 5 all time (nothing tops my Nanny’s grits, though. Ever.) The shrimp was thick and lightly-seasoned.With the cheese grits mixing so well with the shrimp, there was no real need for excess spices.
The Tasso gravy was basically a dipping sauce for the shrimp, which I eventually mixed into the grits and provided a tart zing to add to the thick zest of the grits.
Good culinary experiences can be simple sometimes. This was one of those times.
2.) PLACE: Central City Café, Huntington, West Virginia
MEAL: Whatta Burger — Cheeseburger with mushrooms, bacon and provolone cheese.
If you know me, you know I have a slight obsession with Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives on Food Network. When my wife, Rachael, discovered that on the way home from Outer Banks there was a diner that had been featured on the show, we had to stop (it helped that it was right off Interstate 64 near the Kentucky-West Virginia border).
Central City Café is a quaint 20-or-so table spot in what seemed to be old downtown Huntington, with a number of small antique shops around it.
The inside of the restaurant was filled with various items marking the history of the town, from Marshall University to Army regiments from the area. It was fun to see, even though the café had only been around since 1993.
The food though, took my mind off anything else about the area the second it arrived. I got the Whatta Burger — your basic giant cheeseburger with mushrooms, provolone cheese and bacon — and judging by what you see in the photo below, you can guess it filled my stomach easily. The burger was perfectly cooked at medium (best for ground beef, I think) and all the juices were captured by the vegetables and bun.
It made for a happier trip across Kentucky back to the homeland. And was a perfect end to my own culinary adventure.
1.) PLACE: Tortuga’s Lie
MEAL: Pork Antonio, parmesan-seasoned green beans and garlic mashed potatoes
This was far-and-away the best piece of culinary erotica I had on our trip. I had never heard of the restaurant before my wife informed me that I was meeting her and her family there 30 minutes before getting there.
After finding to place (GPS took me to a totally different address) we survived an hour-long wait to get in, at which point I discovered this would be, at the time, our second spot where Guy Fieri graced the door and the kitchen.
Of course, that factoid became irrelevant once I got my order of Pork Antonio in front of me.
The bone-in pork chop was perfectly cooked — medium, the best way to treat white meat — and seasoned so well that to touch it with salt, ketchup or any other type of sauce or added spice would be a crime. The green beans were so good that less than a week later, I would attempt to replicate them in my own kitchen. I failed. As for the garlic mashed potatoes: creamy, well-seasoned. Everything they should be.
I could sit here and say that all the meals I enjoyed were great, but that would be a lie. And given the name of the restaurant from which I got my best dinner, that would be sacrilege. I can’t tell a lie about a meal that was so good.
A special shout-out to Duck Donuts, our first meal upon arrival in Duck, N.C. Sure they’re simple breakfast food, but these were arguably the best doughnuts I’ve ever had — warm, fresh dough and creamy frosting.
If you’re in the area, wait in line, order a pack of six with a maple bacon glaze as part of that and thank me later.